Traveling towards the Picos de Europa, we stopped for the night at a parking lot near the bus station, where there are designated spots for campers. Early in the morning, while my boys were still sweetly asleep, I took a walk with the dog towards the center of the town, which was just waking up... here and there you could hear the first footsteps of the locals, and the air was filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee...
Cangas de Onís, the capital of the municipality of the same name, is situated in a valley formed by the Sella and Güeña rivers. It was the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, and despite its small size, it boasts a rich history and unique monuments. The most iconic of these is the Roman Bridge, built in the 14th or 15th century and recognized as an artistic monument in 1931. It features five arches, and from the central arch hangs a replica of the Victory Cross.
Another significant monument is the Church of Santa Cruz, known for its ancient construction. This temple was built on a dolmen in 437 AD and later rebuilt in 737 AD by King Favila to house the Victory Cross. After the Civil War, another reconstruction revealed the dolmen, dated around 3000 BC. The side blocks of the current structure come from this ancient dolmen.
In Cangas de Onís, you should also check out other interesting buildings such as the 19th-century Town Hall, the Renaissance-style Cortés Palace, and the 16th-century San Antonio Chapel. I was particularly taken by the decoration of one of the restaurants, which features the most famous characters from Asturian folklore: Xana, Dianu Burlón, El Loberu, Nuberu, and others.
Cangas serves as the gateway to the incredible mountain landscapes that accompany every turn around the spectacular Picos de Europa mountain range. If you're in the area, be sure to stroll through the well-maintained and charming streets of this quintessentially Asturian town.
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